Sombrella Prototype Build Guide

A Complete, Standalone Guide for Building a Sombrero-Shaped Beach Umbrella Prototype

Version 1.0 — March 2, 2026

CONTRACTOR BRIEF — Post This on TaskRabbit / Fiverr / Send to a Local Canvas Shop

Job Title: Build a Sombrero-Shaped Beach Umbrella Prototype

Description: I need someone to build a single prototype of a novelty beach umbrella shaped like a sombrero. The work involves: (1) disassembling a standard beach umbrella for parts, (2) sewing a custom 8-panel canopy with a downward-angled brim, (3) attaching fiberglass brim extension rods with simple hinges, and (4) reassembling everything. The finished product should open/close like a normal beach umbrella but have a distinctive sombrero silhouette — flat-ish crown with a wide brim that curves down ~30°.

Skills Needed: - Sewing machine experience with heavy outdoor fabric (canvas, awning material, or similar) - Basic hand-tool skills (cutting fiberglass rods, drilling, zip ties) - Ability to follow detailed written instructions - Ideal: experience with upholstery, sail-making, awning fabrication, or tent repair

Time Estimate: 10–16 hours total (can be spread over a few days; seam sealer needs 24 hrs to cure)

Suggested Pay: $200–$400 depending on location and experience

What I'll Provide: All materials (pre-purchased, ~$175 worth), this build guide with step-by-step instructions, and reference photos

What You Need: A sewing machine that can handle heavy fabric (or access to one), basic hand tools (scissors, drill, measuring tape — see full tool list in guide). If you don't have tools, budget ~$50–80 extra.

Deliverable: One assembled, functional sombrero umbrella prototype. Must open/close, stand in sand, and look like a sombrero from 20 feet away.

1. OVERVIEW

You're building a beach umbrella that looks like a giant sombrero. It starts with a regular 6.5-foot beach umbrella that you'll take apart for the pole, ribs, and mechanical bits. Then you'll sew a custom canopy — 8 triangular panels that form a dome, plus a 10-inch brim that angles downward around the edge, giving it the sombrero shape. You'll add fiberglass extension rods to support the brim, with flexible hinges so the brim can droop down about 30°. When you're done, it should open and close like a normal umbrella, screw into sand with the included anchor, and cast a wide, sombrero-shaped shadow. It's a proof-of-concept prototype for a consumer product — it doesn't need to be perfect, but it needs to work and look right.

2. COMPLETE SHOPPING LIST

Click the links, add to cart, done. Prices are estimates as of March 2026.

2A. Materials

Materials Subtotal: ~$179

2B. Consumables (you probably have some of these)

Consumables Subtotal: ~$34

3. TOOLS REQUIRED

Don't assume you have anything. Here's every tool you need, whether you should buy/borrow/rent it, and how much it costs if buying.

Tool Cost Summary

4. STEP-BY-STEP BUILD INSTRUCTIONS

Phase 1: Disassemble the Donor Umbrella

Time: 30–45 minutes

Step 1: Photograph Everything

Before you touch anything, open the donor umbrella fully and take photos from every angle — top, bottom, side, close-ups of: - Where the canopy attaches to each rib (look for Velcro tabs, sewn pockets, or stitched loops) - The crown/top hub where all ribs meet - The runner/slider mechanism - The tilt hinge joint - How the stretcher bars connect to ribs and runner

Take at least 10 photos. You'll need these as reference when reassembling with the new canopy.

Step 2: Close the Umbrella and Lay It Down

Step 3: Remove the Canopy

Using a seam ripper (or small scissors), carefully cut/remove the stitching that holds the canopy to the ribs. Go slowly. You want to see exactly how the canopy was attached so you can replicate it.

Typical attachment methods (varies by brand): - Sewn pockets/sleeves that slip over rib tips — cut the stitching at the pocket opening - Velcro tabs sewn to canopy, wrapped around ribs — just peel apart - Stitched loops around ribs — cut the thread - Crown attachment — the canopy center is usually secured to the top hub with a cap or screw. Unscrew/pull off the decorative cap, slide canopy off.

Step 4: Save and Label the Old Canopy

Don't throw it away! Lay it flat — this is your pattern reference. You can trace one panel (1/8th of the circle) directly.

Step 5: Inspect Your Donor Parts

You should now have all of these loose:

✅ CHECKPOINT: You have all 8 ribs, 8 stretchers, both hubs, and the pole assembly separated and undamaged. The open/close mechanism still works when you manually slide the runner up the pole. If anything is broken, you need a different donor umbrella.

Phase 2: Create the Canopy Pattern

Time: 1.5–2 hours

This is the most important phase. Get the pattern right and everything else follows.

Step 6: Understand the Shape You're Making

Imagine looking at the finished umbrella from the side. The profile looks like this:

        ___________
       /           \          ← Flat-ish dome (standard umbrella shape)
      /             \
     /               \
    |                 |
     \___         ___/        ← Brim curves DOWN ~30° from horizontal
         \       /
          \_____/
             |                ← Pole
             |

The canopy has two zones: 1. Dome zone (inner ~33" radius) — same as a regular umbrella 2. Brim zone (outer 10" extension) — angles downward, creating the sombrero look

Step 7: Trace One Gore Panel from the Donor Canopy

Lay the old canopy flat on the floor. It's made of 8 wedge-shaped panels ("gores") sewn together. Find one seam and trace along it from center to edge. Then trace the next seam. You now have one triangular panel.

Trace this shape onto paper (kraft paper, newspaper taped together, or wrapping paper). Add 5/8" seam allowance on both long sides and the outer curved edge. Don't add seam allowance to the center/tip — it gets gathered into the crown hub.

This is your dome gore pattern piece.

Step 8: Create the Brim Extension

Now extend your pattern to add the sombrero brim. Here's how:

1. At the outer curved edge of your gore pattern, measure the width. On a 6.5 ft umbrella, each gore's outer edge is approximately 12.5" wide (the circumference at the rib tip divided by 8).

2. Extend the pattern outward by 10 inches beyond the original edge. But here's the key — the brim needs to angle down, so when laid flat the extension flares wider. Make each side of the extension 1.5" wider than the gore edge.

Here's what it looks like as a pattern piece (not to scale):

``` (center/crown tip) /\ / \ / \ / \ / DOME \ / ZONE \ / \ /__\ ← Original umbrella edge (~12.5" wide here) / \ / BRIM ZONE \ ← 10" deep extension / (channels for \ / brim rods go here) \ /______\ ← Outer brim edge (~15.5" wide here)

Total height: ~43" (33" dome + 10" brim) ```

1. The brim extension sides should taper smoothly from the dome width to the brim width — draw a gentle curve, not a hard angle.

2. Add 5/8" seam allowance on both long sides of the entire piece (dome + brim). Add 1" seam allowance on the outer brim edge (this gets folded in and bound with bias tape).

Step 9: Add the Brim Rib Channel to the Pattern

On each gore panel, a fiberglass brim rod runs down the center of the brim extension. You'll sew a fabric channel (pocket) for it.

Mark a dashed line down the center of the brim extension zone — this is where you'll sew a 4.5mm-wide channel (just wide enough for the 4mm rod to slide in). You'll sew this after the panels are joined.

Step 10: Make a Paper Test Assembly

Cut out 8 copies of your pattern in paper/newspaper (without seam allowance — just the finished shape). Tape them together along the long edges. Hold it up.

• Does the dome portion look like a normal umbrella shape?
• Does the brim hang down when you hold it by the center?
• Does it look like a sombrero from the side?

If yes, great. If the brim doesn't droop enough, make the brim extension wider at the outer edge (more flare = more droop).

✅ CHECKPOINT: Your paper mock-up looks like a sombrero when held up by the center. The dome is round-ish and the brim angles downward. If it looks like a witch's hat (brim goes up) or a mushroom (no brim definition), adjust the pattern before cutting fabric.

⚠️ COMMON MISTAKE: Making the brim extension too narrow (same width as the gore edge). This creates a shallow cone, not a sombrero. The brim needs to flare OUT to drape DOWN.

Phase 3: Cut and Sew the Canopy

Time: 4–6 hours sewing + 24 hours seam sealer cure

⚠️ SEWING SKILL CHECK

This phase requires intermediate sewing skills. Specifically: - Sewing straight seams through 2–3 layers of heavy (300D) fabric - Flat-felled seams (fold-over seams for strength) - Sewing narrow channels/pockets - Bias binding an edge

If you've never sewn heavy fabric before: Hire a seamstress for this phase. Skip to "Instructions for a Seamstress" at the end of this section. Cost: $80–$150 for a few hours of work. You do the pattern-making (Phase 2) and hand her the pattern pieces + fabric + this guide.

Step 11: Cut 8 Gore+Brim Panels

1. Lay your fabric on a large flat surface (floor works fine). Smooth it out.
2. Pin your paper pattern to the fabric. Make sure the straight grain of the fabric runs along the length of the gore (center line from tip to brim edge). This prevents the canopy from stretching weirdly.
3. Cut around the pattern with fabric scissors, leaving the 5/8" seam allowance you marked.
4. Repeat 8 times. Label each piece (write "1" through "8" on masking tape on each one).
5. Cut one 10" diameter circle from fabric (for the vent flap/cap).
6. Cut one 10" diameter circle from mesh fabric (for the vent underlayer).

⚠️ COMMON MISTAKE: Cutting with the fabric pattern/grain going different directions on different panels. This makes the canopy hang unevenly. Keep the grain consistent.

Step 12: Sew Panels Together (Flat-Felled Seams)

A flat-felled seam is sewn twice for strength and gives a clean look. Here's how:

1. Take Panel 1 and Panel 2. Place them right sides together (the "pretty" side facing in). Align the long curved edge. Pin together.
2. Sew a straight stitch along the long edge, 5/8" from the edge. Use V-69 outdoor thread, stitch length 3.0mm (about 8–9 stitches per inch). Backstitch at start and end (reverse 3–4 stitches).
3. Open the panels flat. Trim one seam allowance to 1/4". Fold the wider seam allowance over the trimmed one. Press with iron.
4. Stitch the folded edge down — this is the second row of stitching that makes it "flat-felled." Sew 1/8" from the folded edge.
5. Repeat for all 8 panels: join 1→2, 2→3, 3→4, etc. The last seam joins Panel 8 back to Panel 1, completing the circle.

Sewing machine settings: - Needle: Size 16/100 (heavy/jeans) - Thread: V-69 polyester (outdoor) - Stitch: Straight stitch, length 3.0mm - Tension: Normal (adjust if fabric puckers or thread loops) - Presser foot: Standard or walking foot (walking foot strongly recommended for heavy fabric)

Step 13: Sew Brim Rib Channels

After all 8 panels are joined, flip the canopy to the underside (the side that will face the ground when the umbrella is open).

For each of the 8 seam lines, in the brim zone only (the outer 10"): 1. Cut a strip of fabric 1.5" wide × 11" long (makes a tube channel when folded). 2. Fold in half lengthwise (wrong sides together), forming a 3/4" wide strip. 3. Pin this strip along the center of the brim zone, centered on the seam line, raw edges facing toward the seam. 4. Sew both long edges of the strip, creating a channel/pocket about 4.5mm–5mm wide (just enough for the 4mm fiberglass rod to slide through). 5. Leave the outer end open (the brim edge end) for rod insertion. 6. The inner end (where brim meets dome) should be sewn closed or extend slightly past the dome-brim transition.

Alternative approach (easier): Instead of a separate fabric strip, you can fold a small pleat in the brim fabric at each seam line and stitch it into a channel. Less precise but functional for a prototype.

Step 14: Create the Vent Opening

1. At the very center/crown of the assembled canopy, cut an 8" diameter hole. The seams should radiate outward from this point, so mark the center carefully before cutting.
2. Take the 10" mesh circle. Pin it over the hole on the underside, overlapping the edges of the hole by 1" all around.
3. Sew the mesh to the canopy around the perimeter of the hole, 1/4" from the cut edge. This creates a vented opening — air escapes through the mesh, rain mostly doesn't get in.
4. Take the 10" fabric circle (the vent flap). Sew it to the canopy on the top side, attached at one edge only (like a hinged flap). This covers the mesh from above but can lift in wind to release pressure.

Step 15: Bind the Brim Edge

1. Take bias binding tape. Starting anywhere on the brim's outer edge, unfold one side of the bias tape and pin it to the top side of the brim edge, raw edges aligned.
2. Sew along the fold line of the bias tape, all the way around the brim circumference (~20 feet). When you get back to the start, fold the tape end under 1/2" for a clean finish.
3. Fold the bias tape over the raw edge to the underside. Pin in place.
4. Sew again from the top, stitching through all layers, close to the inner folded edge of the tape. This is called "stitch in the ditch."

TIP: The brim circumference is about 20 feet. That's a lot of bias tape. Buy extra. If you run out, just overlap the ends.

Step 16: Seal All Seams

1. Lay the canopy outside or in a well-ventilated area, top side up.
2. Apply Gear Aid Seam Grip along every sewn seam on the outside of the canopy. Use the applicator tip to run a thin, even line directly over the stitch holes.
3. Pay special attention to the dome-to-brim transition and the vent attachment.
4. Let cure 24 hours before handling. Don't skip this — it waterproofs the needle holes.

Step 17: Add Rib Attachment Points

On the underside of the canopy, at each seam line, in the dome zone: 1. Sew a 3" piece of Velcro (loop side) at a point ~18" from center (roughly where the stretcher bar connects to the rib on the donor umbrella — check your reference photos). 2. Sew another Velcro piece at ~28" from center (about 5" from the dome/brim transition). 3. These will wrap around the main ribs to hold the canopy in position.

Alternatively, replicate whatever attachment method the donor umbrella used (check your photos from Step 1).

✅ CHECKPOINT: Your canopy is fully assembled. Lay it flat on the ground — it should look like a giant octagonal disc with a clear dome zone (inner) and brim zone (outer). The vent is in the center. All seams are sealed. There are 8 channels in the brim zone for the rods. Hold it up by the center — the brim should hang down naturally. It should look like a floppy sombrero.

Instructions for a Seamstress (If Hiring Out the Sewing)

Give the seamstress this section + the pattern pieces + the fabric + thread + bias tape.

Job: Sew an 8-panel umbrella canopy with brim rod channels and a center vent.

Skills needed: Experience with outdoor/heavy fabric (awning, canvas, marine vinyl weight). Must know flat-felled seams and bias binding. Sail-makers, awning fabricators, or upholsterers are ideal.

Specifics: - 8 identical gore+brim panels, sewn with flat-felled seams - Fabric: 300D polyester Oxford, PU-coated (heavy, like tent material) - Thread: V-69 polyester outdoor, 3.0mm stitch length - Needle: 16/100 heavy - 8 brim rib channels on the underside (4.5mm wide pockets, 10" long, centered on each seam in the brim zone) - 1 center vent: 8" hole with mesh underlayer and fabric flap - Bias binding around entire brim edge (~20 ft circumference) - 16 Velcro tabs (2 per seam line) on underside for rib attachment - Seam seal all exterior seams with provided sealer (you can do this yourself if the seamstress won't)

Estimated time: 3–5 hours for an experienced seamstress.

Pay: $80–$150 depending on your area and their rate. This is a single custom piece, not production work.

Phase 4: Fabricate Brim Rib Extensions

Time: 45 minutes–1 hour

Step 18: Cut Fiberglass Rods

1. Put on safety glasses and a dust mask. Fiberglass dust is nasty — it irritates skin, eyes, and lungs.
2. Mark each 48" rod at 10" from one end.
3. Using a hacksaw (or rotary tool with cutoff wheel), cut at the mark. Use slow, steady strokes. Don't press hard — let the saw do the work.
4. Sand the cut ends smooth with 120-grit sandpaper until there are no sharp edges or splinters.
5. You need 8 rods, each 10" long. (4 rods × 2 cuts = 8 pieces + 4 leftover long pieces as spares.)
6. Wash your hands and arms after handling fiberglass. The fine fibers itch.

Step 19: Create Hinges (Zip-Tie Method)

Each brim rod needs to be attached to the tip of a main rib with a flexible hinge. Here's the simplest method:

1. Take one main rib from the donor umbrella. Note where the canopy originally attached at the tip — there's usually a small notch, hole, or groove.
2. Hold a 10" fiberglass brim rod alongside the last 2" of the main rib tip, overlapping by 2". The brim rod should extend outward (away from the umbrella center).
3. Wrap a zip tie tightly around both rods at the overlap point, about 1" from the main rib tip. Trim the zip tie tail.
4. Wrap a second zip tie about 1" below the first.
5. Slide a piece of heat shrink tubing (about 3" long) over the joint. Shrink it with a hair dryer or heat gun. This covers the zip ties and provides a smoother, more durable joint.
6. Test the hinge: Hold the main rib horizontal. The brim rod should be able to flex downward about 30° easily, and resist going upward more than ~10° (the zip ties + heat shrink create a natural stop).
7. Repeat for all 8 ribs.

Side view of one rib with brim extension:

   Main rib (from donor umbrella)         Brim extension (new fiberglass rod)
   =====================================[HINGE]===========>
                                           ↓ hangs down ~30° when loaded

   The hinge is where the zip ties + heat shrink are.
   Cross-section at hinge: main rib — zip ties wrapped around both — brim rod

Step 20: Add Safety Caps

Push a rubber rib tip cap onto the outer end of each brim rod. If the caps are loose, add a drop of super glue.

✅ CHECKPOINT: You have 8 main ribs, each with a 10" fiberglass extension attached at the tip via a zip-tie hinge. Each extension can flex down ~30° and has a safety cap on the end. Wiggle each hinge — it should be firm but flexible, not floppy or rigid.

⚠️ COMMON MISTAKE: Making the hinge too tight (brim rod can't move) or too loose (brim flops around). The brim should hang naturally under its own weight + fabric weight, drooping about 30° below the main rib line.

Phase 5: Final Assembly

Time: 1–1.5 hours

Step 21: Attach Ribs to Hubs

Re-assemble the umbrella frame from donor parts: 1. Slide the lower pole into the sand anchor (just to test fit — don't screw into ground yet). 2. Insert the upper pole into the tilt hinge, then into the lower pole. 3. Seat all 8 main ribs (with their new brim extensions) into the upper hub (crown). They should snap or slide into the same slots they came from. 4. Connect all 8 stretcher bars between the runner hub and the midpoint of each main rib. 5. Test the open/close mechanism: push the runner up — ribs should spread out. The brim extensions will stick out past where the old canopy ended.

Step 22: Install the Canopy

1. Drape the new canopy over the opened rib frame, top side up (seams sealed side facing sky, Velcro tabs facing ground).
2. Align the center vent opening with the crown hub. Slide the crown cap/bolt through the vent and secure it to the hub (same method as original — check your reference photos).
3. Working around the umbrella, attach the canopy to each main rib using the Velcro tabs you sewed (or whatever attachment method you chose). Wrap the loop-side Velcro around the rib and press onto hook-side Velcro already sewn to canopy.
4. Insert brim rods into channels: At each brim rib, slide the fiberglass extension into the fabric channel you sewed. The rod should go in from the outer brim edge and stop where the channel ends near the dome/brim transition.

Step 23: Install the Brim Tension Cord (Bungee Ring)

This keeps the brim taut and prevents individual panels from flapping:

1. At the midpoint of each brim rod (5" from the rib tip), install a grommet through the canopy fabric using your grommet kit. Follow the kit instructions — punch a hole, set the grommet with the included tool and a hammer.
2. Thread 3mm bungee cord through all 8 grommets in sequence, forming an octagonal ring around the brim.
3. Tie the ends together with about 1–2" of slack. The bungee should be slightly stretched when the umbrella is open — pulling each brim panel toward its neighbors.

Step 24: Close and Reopen — Full Function Test

1. Close the umbrella by sliding the runner down. The brim rods should fold inward/upward, nesting against the main ribs. The canopy should gather around the pole.
2. Open it again. Everything should deploy smoothly.
3. Close and open 5 more times. Check for:
4. Brim rods catching on fabric or each other
5. Canopy bunching or pulling unevenly
6. Any rib popping out of its hub slot
7. Bungee tension cord getting tangled

✅ CHECKPOINT: The umbrella opens and closes smoothly at least 5 times in a row. When open, it has a clear sombrero profile — dome on top, brim hanging down around the perimeter. When closed, it's compact enough to fit in a carry bag. The brim tension cord is taut but not overstretched.

5. DETAILED SEWING PATTERN — Gore Dimensions

For a 6.5 ft (78" diameter) donor umbrella with 8 ribs and a 10" brim extension:

One Gore+Brim Panel (finished dimensions, before seam allowance):

                    ·  ← Crown point (A)
                   / \
                  /   \
                 /     \
                /       \
               /         \     Height of dome zone: ~33"
              /           \    (from crown to original rib tip)
             /             \
            /               \
           /                 \
          /                   \
    (B)  /                     \  (C)
         ‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾   ← Width at rib tip: ~12.5"
        \                       /
         \                     /
          \    BRIM ZONE      /    Height of brim zone: 10"
           \                 /
            \               /
        (D)  \_____________/  (E)   ← Width at brim edge: ~15.5"

Key Measurements: | Point | Measurement | |-------|-------------| | A (crown tip) | Comes to a point (will be gathered into hub — cut blunt at 1" wide) | | A to B-C line (dome height) | ~33" along the centerline | | B-C width (at original rib tip) | ~12.5" (measure your actual donor canopy — this varies by brand) | | B-C to D-E (brim depth) | 10" | | D-E width (brim outer edge) | ~15.5" (each side flares 1.5" beyond the dome edge) | | Side edges (A-B and A-C, then B-D and C-E) | Gentle curves — trace from donor canopy for dome portion, then draw straight flared lines for brim |

Seam allowances to add: - Both long curved sides: +5/8" (standard seam allowance) - Outer brim edge (D-E): +1" (for bias binding fold-under) - Crown tip (A): +1/2" (will be folded and gathered)

Total fabric piece size (with seam allowance): approximately 44" tall × 17" wide at base

How to Make the Pattern:

1. Fastest method: Trace one gore from the donor canopy (this gives you the exact dome curve for YOUR specific umbrella). Then add the brim extension onto it as described.

2. From-scratch method:

3. Draw a line 33" long (centerline of the dome).
4. At the top, mark 1" wide (crown tip).
5. At the bottom, mark 12.5" wide, centered on the centerline.
6. Draw gentle curves connecting the crown to the bottom edge (matching the original umbrella's panel shape — a slight S-curve, fatter in the middle).
7. Extend the centerline 10" further down.
8. Mark the brim bottom at 15.5" wide, centered.
9. Draw straight lines connecting the dome edge corners to the brim edge corners.
10. Add seam allowances.

Fabric Layout for Cutting (4 yards of 60" wide fabric):

60" wide fabric
|←————————————————————————————————60"——————————————————————————————→|

+--[Panel 1]--+--[Panel 2]--+--[Panel 3]--+--[Panel 4]--+          Row 1 (~44" tall)
|             |             |             |             |
|             |             |             |             |
+--[Panel 5]--+--[Panel 6]--+--[Panel 7]--+--[Panel 8]--+          Row 2 (~44" tall)
|             |             |             |             |
|             |             |             |             |
+--- leftover for vent circles, channel strips, patches --+         Row 3 (remaining)

Each panel is ~17" wide (with seam allowance), so 4 panels fit across 60" fabric (17" × 4 = 68" — tight, but the panels taper, so they nest). Two rows of 4 = 8 panels. Total fabric used: ~88" = ~2.5 yards. The extra 1.5 yards gives you leftover for the vent circles, brim channel strips, Velcro backing reinforcements, and test pieces. This is why we buy 4 yards — better to have extra.

6. TESTING CHECKLIST

Once the prototype is fully assembled, run through these tests:

7. COST SUMMARY

APPENDIX: Quick Reference Card

Print this and keep it on your workbench.

Key Numbers: - 8 panels, 8 ribs, 8 brim rods, 8 stretchers - Dome radius: ~33" | Brim extension: 10" | Total radius: ~43" - Gore width at rib tip: ~12.5" | Gore width at brim edge: ~15.5" - Seam allowance: 5/8" (sides), 1" (brim edge) - Brim rod: 4mm fiberglass, 10" long - Brim angle: ~30° below horizontal - Thread: V-69 polyester, stitch length 3.0mm, needle 16/100 - Bungee ring: 3mm cord, slight tension

Order of Operations: 1. Disassemble donor umbrella (photograph first!) 2. Make paper pattern from old canopy + brim extension 3. Test paper pattern (tape 8 pieces, hold up, check sombrero shape) 4. Cut 8 fabric panels 5. Sew panels together (flat-felled seams) 6. Sew brim rod channels 7. Create vent (cut hole, attach mesh, attach flap) 8. Bias-bind the brim edge 9. Seal all seams (cure 24 hrs) 10. Cut fiberglass rods (8 × 10") 11. Attach brim rods to main ribs (zip-tie hinge + heat shrink) 12. Add safety caps 13. Reassemble frame 14. Install canopy on frame 15. Insert brim rods into channels 16. Install bungee tension ring 17. Test open/close 18. Go to the beach

Document prepared for Sombrella prototype construction. Questions? Contact Keith.

Sombrella — Prototype Report — Generated by AI Agent Team — March 2, 2026